Going on sixteen years here in Japan and I can say with the self-confidence of a guy who's not afraid to wear an anti-coronavirus mask that no, I'm not an onsen fanatic. Yes, that sort of proclamation can make you a heretic in Japanese society so I'll add, as I always do to maintain the Wa, that I like bathing in scalding hot water at certain times: after a long bike ride, or a day of skiing, or when someone else is paying.
The onsen village of Asama is right up the road from where I've lived for almost six years now. And the only time I ever bothered going up there was for the annual Taimatsu Festival, where groups of insane Japanese people light these massive bales of hay on fire and drag them through the streets, dressed head to toe in flammables.
But then came the coronavirus, and with it the cancellation of life - i.e. the cancellation of all events and the closure of every building a visitor to Matsumoto might be interested in. This puts the squeeze on a guy who is supposed to be keeping up the English version of the town's visitor blog.
In search of something blog-worthy I hopped on my bike and pedaled off, up to Asama Onsen where, once the smoke from all the burning hay clears, there's actually a lot to see. Enough for four blog posts at least, which are here in short form.
NOTE: If you were looking for information on hiking Mt. Asama, the active volcano further east, it should be evident by now you are in the wrong place. But here in Asama Onsen, unlike on active Asama-yama, you know when the place will be drowning in smoke. So hang out and keep reading.
